Food Drink
LA Eats :: Maisons, Marvels and Bohos by David Andrusia
EDGE ContributorTuesday Nov 17, 2009
Chasing away the fall blues? Try one of these fine new finds in LA town for fine food... and fab times.
Kitchen Wishin’
KITCHEN 24 marries a sexy location with a CIA-trained chef to excellent effect. With a bar that’s closed from only 2-6am, this is a coffee-shop-gone-upscale that hasn’t lost its populist roots.
Case in point: K24 Burger ($10), a near-perfect rendition of an old-time charcoal hut burger: charred on the outside, pink (per our order) inside, and served with just-crisped fries. The Reuben ($10) is a steal; thicker than usual, but not too fat to melt the Swiss over tasty corned beef.
We’re not addicted to Smac and Cheese ($9), whose three cheeses weren’t quite as assertive as we’d have liked (we think the Mascarpone was the culprit). We were prepared to write about The Big Baller ($8) on name alone, but were delighted by the saucy seasonings and marvy Marinara; served on foccacia with provolone, we’d make a date with these big boys any time.
Six dinner specials grace the menu; we made a beeline for ($14); this dish misses a hyphen but no taste, and we think it stands up to Roscoe’s any day. Fancier and fabulous is Meatloaf ($13), a big hunk o’ beef and pork served en croute in a flaky, fine pot-pie crust. Both are served with garlicky seasonal vegetables (the spinach is especially good) and chunky mashed potatoes.
KITCHEN 24
1608 N. Cahuenga Boulevard
Hollywood
www.kitchen24.info
Melrose Marvel
VINOTEQUE has an identity crisis- but in this case, it’s a good thing. Owner Gil Ran underplays the fact that chef Joshua Schmooker is a disciple of French Laundry’s Thomas Keller in favor of the more than 300 wines available- all by bottle or glass, and at the best prices in town.
So what is it- an overachieving wine bar or fine dining experience with prices with allure? We say both, and direct your attention to the best Gnocchi ($9) in town. Kissed with a sauce of Stilton and Port, this puts nonna’s leaden ones to shame. A must at just $12 are PEI Mussels, a copious collection in a unique broth of chorizo, cava, and saffron garlic aioli (sic). In terms of sheer ballsiness, nothing matches the Halibut ($19), whose basic blandness can take on the dynamic contradiction of roasted beets and homemade horseradish ice cream- genius cooking here.
This chef can work wonders with classics, too: Braised Short Ribs ($19) makes a star of parsley purée- a delectable diversion from the standard mash. Fall-off-the-bone tender and cooked in Korean kalvi sauce for 24 hours then flash-seared, there’s little else we’d rather eat on a rainy night- when, by the way, the room was full.
Ryan, the Irish sommelier, is a personable pro, and our hostess was a love; that said, the service isn’t up to par for a place where every other aspect sings. (Our friend had to ask for a second glass of wine, and our server forgot to ask if we might care for one, too.) That, however, is easily fixed; and with one of LA’s most dazzling young chefs, a dark, sexy room, and an exceptional list of gorgeously priced wines, we think Vinoteque just divine.
VINOTEQUE
7469 Melrose Avenue
Hollywood
www.vinotequela.com
Bohemian Rhapsody
BOHO gives us a good reason to stay in Hollywood for lunch. (Once full of funky eateries, the Sunset+Vine locus is now full of chain sushi and Mexican lite horrors.) Chef Andre Guerrero has forged an eclectic-yet-not-psychotically-diverse menu where the taste is always the thing.
Take his Fried Oyster ’Po Boy’ Sliders ($9); crispy oysters are wonderfully wedded to applewood bacon with what the menu calls tartar but we call a tangy remoulade sauce. (We yelled "Fire!" after bite one to empty our table and have these beauts all to our greedy lil’ self.)
Salads are substantial and special; Dr. Atkins is smiling down at the Grilled 1/2 Chicken ($16), grilled to perfection (not overdone dryness, as is typically the case) and served with a generous portion of a jicama/corn/avocado/mixed green salad. (We did think the price point was a bit high, though.)
Sausage Pizza ($14) laughs in the face at the notion that you need a wood-burning oven; this crisp-as-can-be thin-crusted ’za was traditional and fine.
The Boho Burger Delux ($14) was just OK- too much bun, too little burger, and while we liked the crusty exterior and cambazola cheese, this one isn’t among LA’s best. The Reuben ($14), however, is. House-cured pastrami and Gruyere on toasted rye- with the requisite sauerkraut- made us swoon.
We didn’t try one of the more than 20 beers on tap as we had work in the afternoon, but the tipplers in the house looked mighty happy. Though priced a bit out of true Boho range, this new Hollywood eatery has a strong chef and something-for-everyone menu we’ll look forward to enjoying again.
BOHO
6372 W. Sunset Boulevard
Hollywood
www.bohorestaurant.com
David Andrusia writes on food, travel, style, and beauty. Author of the bestseller BRAND YOURSELF, he is a career consultant in Los Angeles. Visit him online at www.davidandrusia.com
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